Two savvy scientists are quietly revolutionising the world of mushrooms with their biological control solutions to enhance sustainable farming as well as their triumphant growing of truffles in moss chambers 365 days a year. DIANE DE BEER found herself in their bubble of wonderment in their factory in an industrial hub in Pretoria:
When I first heard about two Pretoria scientists, Helga Dagutat (microbiologist) and Nita Breytenbach (plant physiologist), who are producing truffles, I was excited to meet these two women who seem to be changing and challenging existing norms in a world where few women even in these current times can kick dust in the eyes of their male counterparts.
And they delivered not only on the truffles but also in personality and a characteristic which I suspect is their driving force, perseverance, in bucketsful.
Nita Breytenbach (plant physiologist) and Helga Dagutat (microbiologist)
I was invited, to my delight, to attend their second truffle-inspired and infused dinner, and I couldn’t have been more excited.
The last one was a year earlier and this time the menu was inspired by ancient ingredients and to listen to Helga talk about an almost year-long experiment with the menu and the produce, is what the whole truffle experience means to these two women. They have added their own kitchen in the factory where they play.
Their main line of business is their biological control solutions which enhance sustainable farming, thus empowering farmers. And with the tide turning overwhelmingly to biological rather than chemical control, these two have found themselves ahead of the curve. It is fascinating to hear them describe the development of their unusual business which is based on the use of the edible mushroom mycelium to control the pests that could damage the crops and as Nita explains it, with healthy results overnight. Mushrooms rule almost everything they do. They have even been quoted as saying that it is mushrooms that produce their amazing plant life at the factory.
But we are gathered to celebrate truffles and I’m not going to expand on the technical hazards experienced with growing truffles, only delight in the fact that these two women have developed a way of growing truffles 365 days a year in moss chambers … in their state-of-the-art factory in Koedoespoort. This side of the business called Mustérion is all about truffles.
They are growing two kinds: the black ones which are found in Perigold, France (Tuber melanosporum) as well as the white ones (Tuber magnatum) found in the Piedmont region of Italy.On the night, we were treated to an abundance of what is more commonly referred to as black diamonds (even if that term has a different meaning in this country, intention of the phrase is the same).
But to the menu. Just looking at the detail, beautifully presented by their graphic designer, it is clear that the theme of the evening Ancient Ingredients from Earth to Plate – Mustérion, makes complete sense.
Truffles were probably first discovered (according to the notes on the menu) by the Amorite civilisation where archaeologists excavating a 4 000-year-old Amorite palace found remnants of truffles still in their baskets. And it is this sense of ancient mystery that they wanted to capture for diners at this unusual event.
From the amuse bouche, presented in their dramatic courtyard with huge fires burning and Pretoria’s night sky presenting the perfect backdrop, how can one not go weak at the knees at the presentation of charcoal (burns warmer than wood and was used by the Egyptians to smelt ore in ancient times) tortilla parcels filled with porcini cream and Mustérion Craft Truffles.
I think the word umami was probably invented for truffles. How does one even try to describe the taste sensation this much revered and precious ingredient unlocks? But with the inventors of this specific version, they also know how to create a menu that will best showcase their particular gem. We were told we could have two, but I knew what was waiting and first one’s flavours were still working their particular magic.
Inside an open space in the factory, at the long table, the perfect setting and magically dressed for the night, we had been assigned seating. I was blessed to find Nita on my left and Helga across the table ready with insight about her meticulously crafted menu.
Caremalized pear (one of the oldest cultivated fruits) and Cremezola soup with the craft truffle served with an ancient bread and … truffle butter naturally … had me salvivating. Amaranth seed (which was domesticated 8 000 years ago by the Inca, Maya and Aztec)was used in the bread. The pear, the cheese and truffles, that’s a no brainer,
How I loved seeing the phrase sorghum (8 000 BC traces were found in Egypt) mille-feuille at the start of the next description. The filling was the fairytale-shaped Shimeji mushrooms paired with Macadamia complimented by a cheddar and artichoke mousse with craft truffle. It was the most deluxe comfort food I have had in the longest time.
Rooibok carpaccio with Grano Padano (similar to Parmigiano but produced by monks a 1000 years ago), Baobab craft truffle spheres and a prickly pear purée (fossilised seeds more than 7 000 years old found in Mexico) was plated so artistically, I hated spoiling the picture, but it was one of my favourites. The combinations simply sang exquisitely.
If I mention favourite, every new dish, brought yet another truffle extravagance, so to reflect about the best is a senseless endeavour. It was the complete table that underlined the excellence and excitement of the night.
A taco with a cashew parsley paste filled with date and spiced honey butter (truffle enhanced) topped with charred mielies (which emerged at the dawn of human agriculture about 10 000 years ago) followed by the eland fillet topped with greens and Kremetart mustard (which Helga exclaimed with enthusiasm as “next level” and I agree fully). The oldest Kremetart tree -or Baobab – has been dated as at least 1 800 years old. And how clever of her to add that to the dish which was further bolstered by a pap and queso sauce with truffle.
Gavin was also responsible for the adventurous wines paired spectacularly with every course.
His choices were done by memory because he had to make them without tasting the food, yet knowing the menu. “For me, the challenge was to get people to think about what they were tasting before and after tasting the wine – and vice-versa,” he says. And he did this excellently with a marvellous selection .
The atmosphere was magnifique, the company foodies all, and the extended evening slipped by languorously.
I had a taste of the ancient potato (have to include that when talking ancient produce) pudding with a nutty Cacao drizzle and truffle as well as the most exquisite truffle BonBons served with Dubouché French Cognac again outside around the fire to complete the full circle that the Mustérion evening represented.
It is the extraordinary vision of Nita and Helga, the way their scientific minds work, what they have developed and achieved in such a short time and perhaps most importantly, they are always at play. And that is what I found most contagious – and joyful.
De Beer Necessities 