Tag: Food

MAKE SURE YOU CAN FEND FOR YOURSELF IN THE KITCHEN IS INA PAARMAN’S MAGICAL MANTRA

~ debeernecessities

Ina Paarman has been in the business for half a century and has been a competitive author in a genre that offers in abundance so you need to stand out and find your niche. She did all that and with her latest cookbook brings it all together. She shares some of the secrets of her success with DIANE DE BEER:

Success comes with consistency, says Ina Paarman who has established her reputation with just that. “You have to send out the same message all the time,” she says. Together with that you have to give practical culinary information and recipes backed by good, top quality, products.

Her food philosophy which probably grew through the years was that you have to be able to fend for yourself in the kitchen. “It is an essential life skill and the best way to stay healthy,” she advises.

And with a fast ageing population, this is her mantra, one that has never changed through the years. Instead it has grown stronger.

For those who have watched and heard stories through the years, teaching is her calling. “I love sharing knowledge. Information about skills and technique for example. I believe in removing the fear of food and at the same time the importance of understanding the essence of good nutrition.”

Fresh Pea Soup with Spinach Fish Cakes with Tartar Sauce

In the beginning and in her younger days, she was scared of famous dishes.; “I felt intimidated,” she confesses. But with some experience she learnt that it is best to be your own trendsetter and at the same time to pay attention to your customers. You have to understand and get to know their needs.

In her line of work, she was dealing with real people with families and friends to feed who love good food, food that men and children will enjoy. That’s quite a big ask, but because she was one of these women herself, she knew how to make it work.

In today’s world, less meat is the way to go if you take international trends into account and then you have to understand that everyone is battling with time. When it comes to preparing meals for a family, you are often dealing with people who have many different priorities and time is of the essence.

Branding in today’s world is huge and this is what Paarman understood from the earliest days. “The brand is part of who we are and what we as a family have always been intimately involved with.”

Venison Pie with Phyllo Roses

“Our lives are what we do every day. We do not have a heavy social life, and if we travel it always involves gathering ideas and knowledge. A good business is an extremely demanding taskmaster. But I won’t have it any other way.”

And it shows. Ina Paarman’s name has always been synonymous with quality and in the over-supplied world of cookbooks, you can’t afford not to get it right. There are just too many options and worldwide it has become BIG BUSINESS. Just watch the latest season of Masterchef and see what is happening in the food world. The quality of those young chefs is astounding.

Everyone who manages in a kitchen at some stage might think they have the knowledge for their own cookbook journey. Think carefully, as the specialist explains. “They must realise that success takes time and dedication. Just as you would give total dedication to raising a child, a business, to grow, demands time, attention and continuous re-investment of money.”

We should all know that nothing comes easily. Success has always meant hard work together with the luxury of talent which has been honed.

Talking to her about social media, she is still dubious about the benefits at all times. And that is probably most people’s feeling about this area of our lives which in many cases has become quite monstrous.

Even when we do understand how it has given many of us the ability to do what we do. “Social media is a great way to communicate directly with your customers,” she explains. “But you have to do it in an honest and credible way.” Again that sounds like experience talking. Everyone has had to find their own way.

Through the many decades, staying relevant has probably been her best tool. “Listening, listening and listening and then acting on what you observe,” is her solution.

In conclusion she celebrates the latest cookbook. “It has given us all a lot of pleasure she says. I worked with a talented team and photographer Nicky Hoyle. We took time doing the book (over a year) and worked with the seasons. Our garden was great inspiration and the team are the best in town!

“Beside we enjoyed some delicious meals and had exciting moments of creative stimulation and sharing ideas.”

She recommends the book as all the recipes are thorougly tested and will always work. How can that not work for those of us in our own kitchens? It’s exactly what you want.

She also includes that all the recipes are based on our South African culture with the availaibility of products extremely important. That and our style of eating.Homecooks will feel comfortable with the recipes, she adds. The print is large enough, the ingredients familiar and as a bonus, beautiful photographs. Finally, she says, “I felt the need to share a bit about my background to ‘set the scene’ for each chapter.”

Chicken and Olive Bake with Pitted Dates.

And if you need more encouragement.:

The book’s title, INA PAARMAN: MY FAVOURITE RECIPES, should seal the deal.

Their online shop has closed but the book is available from their factory shop in Diep Rivier, Cape Town or at certain Checkers and Exclusive Books brances.

Here is her favourite recipe in the book:

Ouma’s Karoo Lamb Pie:

This traditional recipe from my mother Nellie Jooste should be preserved for future generations. The aromatic pie always looks impressive and tastes and smells delicious. It can be prepared in advance and frozen with the uncooked pastry cover.

Main Dish:                                                                                 Sauce Condiments:

2 kg lamb on the bone (shoulder or knuckles)        1 t (5ml) ground coriander

Or a mixture of the two cut into 4cm pieces            2 cloves garlic, crushed

Ina Paarman’s Meat Spice                                                2,5ml  Ina Paarman Chilli and Garlic

2 cups (500ml) water                                                           seasoning

2 times 25g Ina Paarman Liquid Beef Stock                 2 t(10 ml) mustard powder

1 onion, chopped                                                                    2 t (10 ml) sugar

2 bay leaves and 5 cloves                                                     4 T (60 ml balsamic vinegar

Sour cream pastry if you have the book, or                    2 T (30ml) cornflour or potato flour

Bought all-butter puff pastry                                               mixed with a little cold water

Egg Wash:                                                                                Half an onion studded with 7 cloves

1 egg, a pinch of sugar and a pinch of salt

                                                                            Makes 1 to 2 pies.

METHOD

Adjust the oven rack to one slot below the middle position and preheat the oven to 160 degrees C

Season the lamb with Meat Spice. Place the water, the beef stock, onion, bay leaves and cloves into a large heavy-based cast iron pot with a lid. Add the seasoned lamb and cook the meat in the oven until  completely tender and starting to fall off the bone (approx. 2 and a half hours).

Spoon the meat out with a slotted spoon and let it cool a little. Remove the bones, excess fat, gristle and bay leaves, then flake the meat.

Fill up the stock remaining in the saucepan with water – you should have approx. one and a half cups. To that, add all the sauce condiment ingredients. Thicken it with cornflour or potato flour blended into a little water. Add the flaked meat and taste for seasoning.

Dish the meat mixture into a heat-resistant  pie dish of approx. 25 cm. Position the spiked onion half in the centre to prevent the pastry from sagging. Leave to cool down. Ideal to refrigerate overnight.

Cover the pie with pastry. Put an extra pastry strip on the rim of the pie dish, then cover the pie with pastry. Scallop  the edges. Glaze with egg wash ingredients beaten together. Turn the temperature up to 190 deg C. Bake for 45 minutes until golden brown. Cover with foil, shiny side up, for the final 15 minutes to prevent overbrowning of the pastry.WINE CHOICES: A wooded Chardonnay or Shiraz will complement the butteriness of the pastry.                

A FRENCH EVENING OF FABULOUS HOSTS, FOOD AND WINE AND A ROOM SIZZLING WITH A DIVERSITY OF FANTASTIC FELLOW SOUTH AFRICANS

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Pictures: HENNIE FISHER

ATTENDING a fabulous dinner at the French Embassy, DIANE DE BEER lost her heart not only to the fantastic food and spectacular wines, but especially to the savvy of her French hosts and the sassiness of her fellow South Africans:

A small but pretty selection of the garden as you enmter the residence grounds.

It  was the French Embassy’s Goȗt de France dinner that again reminded me of one of our best attributes – our people.

Myself with the stylish Itumeleng Makhoi; and above right, First Lady of Lesotho Mrs Mammusa Masekoalane Majoro and Namibian olympian hockey player David Britz.

Here we were in all our diversity from two soon-to-be Olympian hockey players (one representing South Africa and the other Namibia, but we claim him because he is studying at UJ) to a fashion designer whose calling card was her fabulous style on the evening, a stylish young gentleman who imports champagne for local enthusiasts, a sassy lawyer and a smart landscape architect.

Two chefs, Mpho and Mohau Seshoene (aka The Lazy Makoti) with the French Ambassador H. E. Mr David Martinon , and on the right, landscape architect Mosa Seshoene and Adv. Kutlwano Motla (or The Boujee Traveller, a travel content creator)
PICTURE: French Embassy/Aldina Mujkanovic

And that’s just a handful. There was the woman with the red headpiece and the sexy red stilettos who turned out to be the First Lady of Lesotho Mrs Mammusa Masekoalane Majoro and it wasn’t just her style that was exuberant, her personality was a perfect match. But the same could be said of the two young lasses (above) also at our table, the one a landscape architect and the other a lawyer, both of whom had as much sass as they had style.

A predictable but splendid welcome

It has always been one of the French Embassy’s secret weapons. There’s someone there who knows how to put a spectacular group of South Africans together. This time the current ambassador H.E. Mr David Martinon noted that because of the upcoming Olympics in Paris, they had hoped to combine food and sport but that wasn’t always achievable.

But what they did manage was to showcase people who displayed our most  extraordinary strength – diversity.

French Embassy chef André Ahiba (left), who has served nine Ambassadors with his staff in the kitchen.
PICTURE: French Embassy/Aldina Mujkanovic

All of this was also reflected by the charming Ambassadorial couple, H.E. Mr Martinon and his wife Karen, in the food on the night which was the brainchild of the embassy chef, André Ahiba, who has served nine ambassadors and celebrated French cuisine in marvellous fashion.

A melange of seafood

The starter was a mini seafood combo with a prawn poached in its own bisque paired with a beautiful panfried scallop. It was delicious and a fine launch into the rest of the meal.

Slow-cooked Karoo lamb shank with imaginative accompaniments.

This was followed with slow-cooked Karoo lamb shank which paid homage to produce from a specific region and then similarly, to sustainability. The accompaniments included pomme dauphine and julienne courgettes. But the piece de resistance was a morille farcie, which my chef partner said he knew about but had never eaten. When looking for a translation, stuffed mushrooms pops up, but the best I can do is to say that the chef noted it was extremely expensive and the taste was that of mushrooms, very intriguing.

Brie truffe Brioche, the cheese course.

This was followed by their cheese course which again displayed a wonderful individuality of thought. What could have been easier than presenting us with a selection of French cheeses. Everyone would have been wowed. But again the chef imaginatively presented us with Brie truffe Brioche (a brioche with truffle brie is my translation) which I loved, served with a salad, it was different and tasty.

A sweet surprise.

The other nod to South African produce was a Rooibos white Valrhona tart with a red fruits and a biscuit financier (which has its name because of the shape reflecting a gold bar!).

What I liked about the menu was that it felt pared down in the best sense of the word. Every dish had some extraordinary qualities but in conclusion, one left the table replenished yet comfortable.

The food was complemented with phenomenal French wines. I am by no means a wine specialist but from the apéritif served with the most delicious foie gras squares brightly decorated with rose leaves out of the spectacular embassy garden, Champagne Gobillard rosé 2016, followed by Chablis Cru Domaine Long-Depaquit 2022 and the most amazing of all, the Château SIRAN Margaux Haut Médoc 2017, and then the Petit Ours Blanc Domaine Matthieu Barret 2014 and finally yet another fantastic Champagne Mumm Olympe demi-sec.

When countries want to show off their quality and they do it this well, those of us invited to participate in the tasting, cannot but go overboard with the praise.

And in the final analysis it was the full package that gift-wrapped this evening so magnificently. From the arrivals which take you through some of the prettiest gardens to the entrance where you are met with a glorious ensemble of citizens hosted by an enchanting ambassadorial couple who as a bonus also have their young daughters meet the guests and show off some French charm.

The staff are magnificently dressed with gorgeous smiles as they gently see that the guests on the night are suitably cared for.

And then my fellow South Africans introduced to me by the French ambassador. I think I have said as much as I can and can simply add that it was an evening that I couldn’t have been more proud to be South African.

And I have the French to thank for that.

Merci beaucoup.

Vive la France!

Delicious and Delightful: de food, de chef, de deli

~ debeernecessities

Diane de Beer

 

LadiesWithKopdoeke1
Rachel and her deli dames

 

Pictures: Theana Breugem

CarltonChef
Carlton Chef Rachel Botes

 

What makes a good deli?

We have a few in Pretoria but if you check your favourite, mine happens to be Carlton Café Delicious (Menlo Park Centre, 71, 13th Street, Menlo Park) – it usually has something to do with the chef patron; in this instance,  the fabulous Rachel Botes.

It’s all about quality produce and seasonal food, as it usually is with good chefs across the world, but with Rachel it’s about something more. It is her deep love of food, her instincts of what she wants to present and how, as well as strong roots in terroir which taps into her cultural background.

She never lets up. The deli is always evolving with fresh ideas popping as frequently as her trademark baked goodies that few can resist. She has a demanding clientele who through the years have appreciated the excellence, thus always expecting more. And she doesn’t disappoint.

Reading her daily specials on the blackboard is a treat and often trips you up if you’re expecting that all old favourites will remain on the menu. Because her dishes often defy the description, it’s difficult to resist just checking out what she has come up with.

CarltonTomatoTarts
Carlton Tomato Tarts

She has developed a formidable team around her but as anyone in the competitive restaurant world knows, nothing stays the same for too long. Yet she has been up to the challenges, understanding that well-trained staff will move on to different experiences, sometimes simply dictated by a change in their lives.

A good example is her Friday Dinners, which were inspired by a tough economy and a desire to gift her customers with an enticing option at a competitive price to counter punch financial famine. The options are well thought through, varied and cuisine that would be difficult to replicate with similar excellence both in the kitchen and on monetary grounds.

There’s also the Friday happy hour, which was initiated to celebrate and spotlight a long-awaited liquor licence while simultaneously allowing the creative cuisine minds in the kitchen to explore and experiment. Watch out for some of these favourites to resurface in the new menus.

It’s not only the food that’s fiery, it’s also her choice of wines which she has astutely assumed should be cheap but of supreme quality because they are a daytime deli. She has some of the best sourcing secrets and if you are smart, make a note of your favourites for your own wine cupboard.

CarltonAnchovyToast
Carlton Anchovy Toast

Different folks want different strokes in their desires for their best deli. In mine (or all honesty my partner’s), it is the anchovy toast breakfast (for the past few years and foreseeable future) that is the meal of choice – and would be any time of day, if there wasn’t a cut-off point.

Others cannot make their annual trek to the sea without the Rachel festive specials and it’s a treat of a different kind to watch these goodies being collected.

A few years ago that side of the deli has moved next door and there’s more breathing space all round but it has also allowed Rachel to have her own long table, which is used for separate occasions. You can book the table for a special lunch or evening event allowing the chef supreme to do her own menu.

She’s at her best when given free rein because it allows that cuisine craftiness to shine through.

If you wonder about her not receiving all the accolades her reputation so richly deserves, it is a result of its being a daytime deli. It’s as if the food powers that control these awards don’t take that kind of food finesse into account.

CarltotMarmiteTart
Carlton Marmite Tart

And yet, with everything she does, travelling the country to pass on her skills or to cook on request for people who know what she achieves in the kitchen, is worth experiencing, any time, any place.

If you’re wondering about this ode to a chef, it took some thought to decide when writing about food on this first-time blog, what would I like my first food musings to cover.

Why not someone who has been worth watching over the years, someone who has become a friend, but was first and foremost a chef whose artistry from the start was awe-inspiring?

CarltonBiltong
Carlton Biltong

Whether it is about a table setting, the choice of flowers or table decorations on a particular occasion, deciding to make her own biltong, or the way she has constructed artistic meals in art museums to accompany and illustrate an exhibition. Or simply thinking about the drinks she served all those years when she was waiting for a licence, to make it colourful for her clients who might have preferred a light wine with their lunch.

It’s about the innovation, the innate sense of style, the way she turns everyday meals into something imaginative with sleight of hand to make it special and often spectacular that fills a dreary day with sunshine.

This is a chef who loves to feed people, to have them smile, to add new tastes and textures, to surprise even the toughest critic – but also someone who has learnt to accept that you cannot please all of the people all of the time.

For me though, it is always delicious because this is food that is thought about, has to fit different criteria but in the end, has one goal, to be delicious!