Tag: recipes

THE VISION, THE MENU AND THE GUIDANCE OF DOOLSHE IS ALL LIENTJIE WESSELS

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Doolshe Restaurant and Winebar is a new venue out of town, between Joburg and Pretoria, with food genius Lientjie Denton in charge of the menues. DIANE DE BEER was keen to check this latest venture:

Chef/artist/fashion activist Lientjie Denton is a woman who lives life to the full. Meeting her a few decades ago when she opened her first interior shop, Lemon Lounge, in the always-sassy Brooklyn Mall, I knew this woman had exceptional style. That feeling has exploded over the years.

She always seems to make the right move at the right time, usually driven by personal passion and when life runs ahead, she finds a new pad for one of her passions and gets down and dirty.

It was at Lemon Lounge that I first lost my heart to this larger-than-life woman. She knows what she likes, and you knew immediately whether it was your kind of place.

After the shop, which moved and changed over the years, she spent a stint as a magazine journalist focusing especially on arty interiors, and then she opened a restaurant in Cullinan, which has had quite a few revivals and changes. Mainly it’s about moving about. She started in one of those classic mining houses so much a  part of the Cullinan charm, but then decided to be less permanent, left the regular premises and moved her food events around.

A few years ago, her yearning for change reared its head again. Lientjie and her partner Marius discovered the Karoo and, more specifically, Richmond, which is fast becoming a foodie destination and so much more.

So it is all about moving between these two different landscapes, each with its own challenges.

Last week the two of us went on a particular journey where food was the passion that would feature – to my delight. I have always loved her food and as she is constantly experimentingand dreaming about new combinations and flavours (her cookbook is titled Geure (Flavours), I’m always excited to see where and how her cuisine will manifest.

With her latest venture, she is behind the scenes, not necessarily even on the premises, but the vision, the menu and guidance is all Lientjie. The address,  when you Google is K40  on the 512 (Pelindaba Road) opposite the Lion & Safari Park, Broederstroom. From either Pretoria or Joburg it should take less than an hour – and it’s an easy drive.

She was contacted by two friends, who own the property and wanted her to design the menu and get the venue up and running. She quickly got hold of another- old friend, Mart Gresse, who she knew was perfect to run front-of-house, and three young chefs were appointed to do justice to the menu. For Lientjie, it is an ideal setup as these three young graduates are eager to learn.

The menu is seasonal, and even the one we sampled, will already be changed when this goes to print. But, taste rules. While the menu has Italian influences,  she steers clear of any staple items and when there are any, she adds her own interpretation and twists. Currently, she loves playing with fermented flavours, which introduces a strong contemporary slant – something she has always introduced to her menus.

It’s also what intrigues her followers, who don’t want the tried-and-tested but prefer to discover new tastes and ways to experience what could have been familiar recipes.

She describes her food as plant-forward, but world cuisine is the term she feels captures it best. Yet, she adds, and this is important, it is food from here. That’s truly what she does brilliantly. She is her own person, and her food reflects this.

Spending a day in her company also highlights her obsession with food. There’s not a moment that she doesn’t think of something she saw which reminds her of something else and voila, it results in a new recipe. “I make food in my head,” she says. And that’s true, it’s how she travels through her days.

Raisin pickle and Karoo dolmades made with venison are mentioned … and her mind races  off.

The current menu starts with a Doolshe farmhouse breakfast (herby pork sausage, bacon, eggs, fried tomato with parmesan granola, apricot chutney toast and white Miso butter) at R165; smoked trout and scrambled eggs with sour cream chives and dill (R190) or if you want something different ricotta flapjacks, homemade berry compote and whipped cream (R120).

Salads include different varieties, familiar and yet, there’s always a twist. You could share one at the table with a main or have it as a meal. The beef fillet strip and fried caper panzanella with crunchy vegetables and a balsamic dressing is perfect for a hot day.

You also have the option of sandwiches (pastrami with fennel pickle or roast chicken with parmesan granola, and,herb pesto with vegetable chips, all finger-licking good) or perhaps two starters (a sour cream and onion tortilla with white bean paté, parmesan and boerewors with a bite of chilli crumbs and short rib croquettes and blueberry chutney).

Lamb skewers with olive salsa verde and fresh sardine rillettes bruschetta with fennel also caught my fancy.

Mains include from smoked snoek gratin and apricot chutney (R220), pork neck and apple on creamy parmesan mash (R250,) chicken feta and parmesan roulade in saffron, honey and hazelnut sauce served with cous-cous (R250), or lamb chops with Za’atar, roast vegetables, cous-cous and rose harissa yogurt (R310) and a more manageable mushroom and cognac pasta with parmesan. And I need to read no further than the brown-butter spiced blondie and double chocolate ice-cream, priced between R80 and R125, to conclude on a sweet note.

It’s an unusually expansive venue with many different options. You could start with a Sunday morning hike and have a late brunch; you could come for a sunset and cocktails lookabout; or you could have a dinner-a-deux on the verandah on a moonlit night. It’s about the surroundings, the interiors and the ambience, take your pick.

Her new menu is ready to go and includes many new versions in her inimitable style. Sandwiches include for example beef fillet, Japanese barbeque and chlli mayo or a herb and garlic chicken breasts and lemon, black pepper mayo, parmesan and basil sandwich. On the salad platter, there’s the choice of a fragrant chicken and veg salad with a lime, coconut and chilli dressing or a Mediterranean lentil, chickpea, olive And artichoke salad with lemon and garlic mayo.

Mains include bobotie meatballs with brown basmati rice and traditional chutney or an artichoke and spinach  with tomato pesto gnocchi or if fish is your particular favourite brown butter and soy salmon, creamy mash and green beans and fermented carrots.

The name Doolshe already transports you to a different world. Pronounced dool-she, it is a loanword from Italian, meaning sweet. Italy colonized East and North Africa from the late 19th century into the middle of the last one. During that period, locals borrowed words from their colonisers and adopted them with their own pronunciation – hence Doolshe. And this particular abode with its verandah-styled dining spaces as windows are flung open wide allowing the inside out or closed in chillier times for a more cosy space, certainly embraces its name.

There’s nothing more apt for the ambience, the people, the drink and the food. It’s the sweetest.

Times: Thursdays and Fridays, lunch and dinner; Saturdaya breakfast, lunch and dinner; and Sundays breakfast and lunch.

MAKE SURE YOU CAN FEND FOR YOURSELF IN THE KITCHEN IS INA PAARMAN’S MAGICAL MANTRA

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Ina Paarman has been in the business for half a century and has been a competitive author in a genre that offers in abundance so you need to stand out and find your niche. She did all that and with her latest cookbook brings it all together. She shares some of the secrets of her success with DIANE DE BEER:

Success comes with consistency, says Ina Paarman who has established her reputation with just that. “You have to send out the same message all the time,” she says. Together with that you have to give practical culinary information and recipes backed by good, top quality, products.

Her food philosophy which probably grew through the years was that you have to be able to fend for yourself in the kitchen. “It is an essential life skill and the best way to stay healthy,” she advises.

And with a fast ageing population, this is her mantra, one that has never changed through the years. Instead it has grown stronger.

For those who have watched and heard stories through the years, teaching is her calling. “I love sharing knowledge. Information about skills and technique for example. I believe in removing the fear of food and at the same time the importance of understanding the essence of good nutrition.”

Fresh Pea Soup with Spinach Fish Cakes with Tartar Sauce

In the beginning and in her younger days, she was scared of famous dishes.; “I felt intimidated,” she confesses. But with some experience she learnt that it is best to be your own trendsetter and at the same time to pay attention to your customers. You have to understand and get to know their needs.

In her line of work, she was dealing with real people with families and friends to feed who love good food, food that men and children will enjoy. That’s quite a big ask, but because she was one of these women herself, she knew how to make it work.

In today’s world, less meat is the way to go if you take international trends into account and then you have to understand that everyone is battling with time. When it comes to preparing meals for a family, you are often dealing with people who have many different priorities and time is of the essence.

Branding in today’s world is huge and this is what Paarman understood from the earliest days. “The brand is part of who we are and what we as a family have always been intimately involved with.”

Venison Pie with Phyllo Roses

“Our lives are what we do every day. We do not have a heavy social life, and if we travel it always involves gathering ideas and knowledge. A good business is an extremely demanding taskmaster. But I won’t have it any other way.”

And it shows. Ina Paarman’s name has always been synonymous with quality and in the over-supplied world of cookbooks, you can’t afford not to get it right. There are just too many options and worldwide it has become BIG BUSINESS. Just watch the latest season of Masterchef and see what is happening in the food world. The quality of those young chefs is astounding.

Everyone who manages in a kitchen at some stage might think they have the knowledge for their own cookbook journey. Think carefully, as the specialist explains. “They must realise that success takes time and dedication. Just as you would give total dedication to raising a child, a business, to grow, demands time, attention and continuous re-investment of money.”

We should all know that nothing comes easily. Success has always meant hard work together with the luxury of talent which has been honed.

Talking to her about social media, she is still dubious about the benefits at all times. And that is probably most people’s feeling about this area of our lives which in many cases has become quite monstrous.

Even when we do understand how it has given many of us the ability to do what we do. “Social media is a great way to communicate directly with your customers,” she explains. “But you have to do it in an honest and credible way.” Again that sounds like experience talking. Everyone has had to find their own way.

Through the many decades, staying relevant has probably been her best tool. “Listening, listening and listening and then acting on what you observe,” is her solution.

In conclusion she celebrates the latest cookbook. “It has given us all a lot of pleasure she says. I worked with a talented team and photographer Nicky Hoyle. We took time doing the book (over a year) and worked with the seasons. Our garden was great inspiration and the team are the best in town!

“Beside we enjoyed some delicious meals and had exciting moments of creative stimulation and sharing ideas.”

She recommends the book as all the recipes are thorougly tested and will always work. How can that not work for those of us in our own kitchens? It’s exactly what you want.

She also includes that all the recipes are based on our South African culture with the availaibility of products extremely important. That and our style of eating.Homecooks will feel comfortable with the recipes, she adds. The print is large enough, the ingredients familiar and as a bonus, beautiful photographs. Finally, she says, “I felt the need to share a bit about my background to ‘set the scene’ for each chapter.”

Chicken and Olive Bake with Pitted Dates.

And if you need more encouragement.:

The book’s title, INA PAARMAN: MY FAVOURITE RECIPES, should seal the deal.

Their online shop has closed but the book is available from their factory shop in Diep Rivier, Cape Town or at certain Checkers and Exclusive Books brances.

Here is her favourite recipe in the book:

Ouma’s Karoo Lamb Pie:

This traditional recipe from my mother Nellie Jooste should be preserved for future generations. The aromatic pie always looks impressive and tastes and smells delicious. It can be prepared in advance and frozen with the uncooked pastry cover.

Main Dish:                                                                                 Sauce Condiments:

2 kg lamb on the bone (shoulder or knuckles)        1 t (5ml) ground coriander

Or a mixture of the two cut into 4cm pieces            2 cloves garlic, crushed

Ina Paarman’s Meat Spice                                                2,5ml  Ina Paarman Chilli and Garlic

2 cups (500ml) water                                                           seasoning

2 times 25g Ina Paarman Liquid Beef Stock                 2 t(10 ml) mustard powder

1 onion, chopped                                                                    2 t (10 ml) sugar

2 bay leaves and 5 cloves                                                     4 T (60 ml balsamic vinegar

Sour cream pastry if you have the book, or                    2 T (30ml) cornflour or potato flour

Bought all-butter puff pastry                                               mixed with a little cold water

Egg Wash:                                                                                Half an onion studded with 7 cloves

1 egg, a pinch of sugar and a pinch of salt

                                                                            Makes 1 to 2 pies.

METHOD

Adjust the oven rack to one slot below the middle position and preheat the oven to 160 degrees C

Season the lamb with Meat Spice. Place the water, the beef stock, onion, bay leaves and cloves into a large heavy-based cast iron pot with a lid. Add the seasoned lamb and cook the meat in the oven until  completely tender and starting to fall off the bone (approx. 2 and a half hours).

Spoon the meat out with a slotted spoon and let it cool a little. Remove the bones, excess fat, gristle and bay leaves, then flake the meat.

Fill up the stock remaining in the saucepan with water – you should have approx. one and a half cups. To that, add all the sauce condiment ingredients. Thicken it with cornflour or potato flour blended into a little water. Add the flaked meat and taste for seasoning.

Dish the meat mixture into a heat-resistant  pie dish of approx. 25 cm. Position the spiked onion half in the centre to prevent the pastry from sagging. Leave to cool down. Ideal to refrigerate overnight.

Cover the pie with pastry. Put an extra pastry strip on the rim of the pie dish, then cover the pie with pastry. Scallop  the edges. Glaze with egg wash ingredients beaten together. Turn the temperature up to 190 deg C. Bake for 45 minutes until golden brown. Cover with foil, shiny side up, for the final 15 minutes to prevent overbrowning of the pastry.WINE CHOICES: A wooded Chardonnay or Shiraz will complement the butteriness of the pastry.